Wind In Your Sales: Part VII

Given the current economic crisis, many families are being forced to cut expenses - particularly for entertainment and vacations. This means a change in our scheduled vacation to the British Virgin Islands in November 2009. You may recall previous Wind In your Sails posts [click here] where I wrote about our plans to bare boat charter a catamaran with two other couples. Unfortunately, one couple suffered a financial setback in July due to an unexpected job loss (the good news is he just received a lucrative job offer - congrats, Mitch!). Another couple is feeling the economic effects by a downturn in revenue for their family business. I don't know anyone who isn't adversely affected by the economic recession in some way. Unfortunate circumstances have forced the six of us to reconsider our travel plans and whether or not it would be financially prudent to cancel.

After much deliberation, the two couples backed out and Doughboy and I decided to continue our charter plans alone. We'll be celebrating our 20th wedding anniversary in March and this would be our gift to each other. We've downsized the vessel to a 37' monohull sailboat and may even squeak out reduced airfare by cashing our frequent flyer miles. With the down payment I made on the catamaran we are nearly paid in full. So... a-sailing we will go! Here's a photo of the sailboat Doughboy and I will call "home" for a week (sorry for the poor quality - I'm at the mercy of The Moorings' web site).




Someday, when the economy improves and this mess is behind us, we will again make plans to sail with our friends. What fun we'll have sailing the high seas together!

Wind In Your Sails: Part VI

My story left off with an exploration of the Baths on Virgin Gorda. We returned to the boat mid afternoon and made ready for the long sail to our next overnight destination – the Bitter End – before the sun set. In the sailing days of yesteryear, the last nub of land that galleons and schooners passed on the long journey back to the Old World was the North Sound of the British Virgin Islands – known as the "bitter end". Today, this remote peninsula of Virgin Gorda holds one of the busiest resorts in the Caribbean – one that remains true to the nautical tradition of wind, water, and sails.

Sailing along the western coast of Virgin Gorda within the protection of the Sir Francis Drake Channel, I struggled to see how the island got its name. Named by Christopher Columbus, Virgin Gorda means "fat virgin." Apparently, looking at the island from the distance reminded him of a reclining naked woman. If you squint and use your imagination you can just about get an inkling of what Columbus saw, but it doesn't take much imagination to understand that Captain Chris spent way too many sea days solely with the company of his fellow sailors!

The Bitter End Yacht Club (BEYC) began in the 1970s as a small marina for sailboats and has slowly grown to become a huge self-contained complex which caters to visiting and vacationing yachtsmen, boaters, and water lovers of all ages. We had only a handful of precious hours to get to the North Sound – home of the Bitter End.

Claudia enjoys the ride...


To get there we must sail a few hours along the west coast, and around the northern point of Mosquito Island with famous Leverick Bay to starboard and Prickly Pear Island to port. I radioed ahead to the BEYC requesting permission to dock, and prepared our crew for arrival. I was at the helm. As we approached the dock, I switched the gear of our diesel engine to neutral to slow the forward motion of Quantum 2. An instructor in one of my sail courses called this technique “kissing the dock”.

Bill was at the bow, ready to toss the line to the waiting dock hand. Doughboy was at the stern. Rather than wait until the boat came to a safe stop, he leapt a space of a couple feet from the boat to dock. Big mistake! His sandal caught where the mainsail and stern halyards meet the boat deck. Doughboy's sandal stopped his foot dead while he remained in motion, falling hard against the dock. He was in serious pain. We didn’t know how serious until we returned home. We had absolutely no basis for our medical opinion, but his injury couldn't be that bad. Could it?After immediate and careful examination, we determined he had badly sprained his ankle. We didn’t know that he had actually ripped his Achilles tendon in two – the top part of the tendon rolled up inside his calf like a window shade while the bottom half bunched up around his ankle. His only medical treatment was an Ace bandage that I found at the local General Store. Even now, I wonder how he made it through the rest of our vacation by hobbling around on one foot. Thinking about it still makes my butt pucker :( It would take copious amounts of ice – for the rum – to bring him any amount of comfort.

Doughboy’s unfortunate accident would delay our departure for two days. Hmmm…two days in paradise was not a terrible imposition. We were thinking only of his comfort, of course. Having securely docked Quantum 2, we had shore power which meant a luxurious amount of electricity at our disposal. Hot showers were available about 20 feet away. Yes, we could be quite content staying put for a couple days until Doughboy recovered well enough to depart for our next destination.


Later, when we return home, I would feel badly for making light if his injury. At the immediate time, I ridiculed him for getting out of his share of work and making Bill fetch rum drinks. Look! There's Bill...probably his 15th trip of the day!


"Hey yo Bill! Can you bring anudder rum drunk pleazh?"


NOTE: As I mentioned in a previous post, please excuse the poor quality of my photos. They were taken six years ago with an old film camera. Technology has come a long way since then.

To be continued…

Wind In Your Sails: Part V

On the third day of our adventure we left Cooper Island for beautiful Virgin Gorda. The BVI offers the most consistently ideal sailing conditions for sail charters. Trade winds blow on the norm from ten to twenty knots throughout most of the year. More important than wind speed is the wind direction. The wind blows almost constantly from the east down in the Virgin Islands. Sailing into the Sir Francis Drake Channel the wind will be blowing on your left ear as you look ahead. The Sir Francis Drake Channel is approx 9 miles long and 4 miles wide. Blocking the Atlantic Ocean is the island of Tortola, and shielding us from the Caribbean Sea swells are eleven other islands. This geography makes for perfect sailing conditions – a lively 2-3 foot chop and constant trade winds. It is very sunny here (about 85 degrees), but the winds keep it comfortable.

One of the most awesome sights to behold when sailing the British Virgin Islands are The Baths at the southern tip of Virgin Gorda. There are conflicting theories as to how these incredible rock formations came to be. Some say The Baths resulted from a meteor shower, others credit volcanic activity. There appears to be some evidence of lava flows which could have happened centuries after a meteor shower ... but what do I know? I’m not a geologist!


Okay, so The Baths are just a pile of "really big rocks" on a beach ... but when sailing up to them, you'll understand. They really are simply magnificent! Snorkeling is pretty good at The Baths too. There are marvelous Elkhorn coral formations and plenty of nooks and crannies to explore.
From the beach we followed the trail to the elegant but casual Top of the Baths restaurant whose open air verandah has magnificent panoramic views atop the hill. Fortified by a leisurely lunch we spent several hours exploring The Baths. Our next destination is the uninhabited Seal Dog Islands. To be continued…

Wind In Your Sails: Part IV

With day one of our sailing adventure over and day two ahead of us, we awoke early and ate a leisurely breakfast topside in the fresh morning air. The day’s agenda included a short dinghy trip to the Caves for snorkeling, followed by a day long sail to our overnight mooring in Manchineel Bay at Cooper Island.

Lending to the continuing legend of buried treasure, the famous Caves, pictured below, are only four feet deep, although they drop off to 40 feet near their entrance. Typically explored by snorkeling, the Caves are fascinating rock formations. The variety of tropical fish, the life-encrusted walls of cup corals and sponges with their brilliant colors, and the abundant waterfowl, including pelicans, tropic birds and laughing gulls, make this a popular area.

Packing our gear in the dinghy, Dinghy Captain Bill followed the craggy shoreline to Treasure Point on the lower tip of The Bight. Rounding the point, we tied up at the dinghy mooring. The northern-most cave stretches 70' back into the island. In the early morning light we saw the gorgeous purples, rusts and deep veins of the above water walls. Underwater, it's like a night dive, with the coral polyps extending their tentacles to feed. At the end of the cave is a small room. The next cave is deeply indented into the rock face. Still another cave is above the water line. The southernmost cave has a rounded rock bottom on which to stand, underneath a natural skylight. This is a good place to take photos from the inside. The surge was powerful and we had to be careful to avoid getting too close to the cave walls. Not only can you cause harm to yourself, but you can damage the cave's fragile ecosystem.

Returning to Quantum 2, we unfurled the sails and journeyed east to Cooper Island. We sailed past beautiful Peter Island that was closed for renovations, and tiny Salt Island. Reefs shimmered in many hues of blue and green, from navy blue in the deeper water to light blues, light greens and turquoise in the shallower places. Rocks and the reef itself appear in brown hues and darker shades. Added to the composition is the cerulean blue of the tropical sky reflecting back from the water's surface. Entering Manchineel Bay from the north, we found that securing to a mooring ball was not as easy as The Bight at Norman Island. Whereas The Bight was protected from the Caribbean Sea, Manchineel Bay was open to the south and somewhat rougher. While we still had enough daylight to navigate safely, we took the dinghy to shore and strolled along the powder-soft sandy beach.

Exploring Manchineel Bay, we were warned to avoid the manchineel tree, particularly in the rain. Fortunately for us, it was a beautiful cloudless evening. The tree's sap, said to be used by the Carib Indians to poison their arrows, causes severe skin blistering and, if in the eyes, at least temporary blindness. It can take the paint off of any car parked under it. If it rains the water dripping off the leaves can burn our skin! In the summer this tree produces fruit that look like green apples, but are very poisonous. Columbus called the apples "death apples". The only animals that can eat the fruit of the manchineel tree without getting poisoned are land crabs. Even bumping into the tree trunk can get poisonous sap on us. This is not the tree you would want to sit beneath, no matter how much shade it provides. Fortunately, this tree is the only one that is dangerous on Caribbean beaches.

Returning to Quantum 2, the guys snorkeled off the stern while Claudia and I prepared dinner. Once again we enjoyed the soft evening breezes while watching a spectacular sunset. There isn't a five star restaurant anywhere in the world that compares to this. Besides, what 5-star restaurant allows you to dine barefoot? It doesn’t get better than this. Ahhhhhh. We vowed never to return.

NOTE: Click on the label "Wind in your Sails" to follow along as I relive our 2002 BVI sailing adventure with the Smietanas. We plan to take this same adventure, plus a surprise addition or two, with Chere/Fred and Judy/Mitch in fall 2009. One island we will be sure to visit is Peter Island. At the time of our 2002 sail adventure Peter Island was closed. The entire 1,800 acre island is a private resort. When we motored close to the dock, we were shooed away by a dock tender. Friends have since visited Peter Island and I was told to not miss eating at the resort's wonderful beach restaurant. And next time, we'll make sure the dinghy doesn't leak!

Wind In Your Sails: Part III

We set sail in the fall of 2002, almost six years ago, aboard a 42’ Beneteau named Quantum 2. Our crew consisted of Bill and Claudia Smietana, Pete, and yours truly. The day of our departure dawned cloudy and drizzly. We all attended the mandatory and essential boat and chart briefing. The Moorings is well known for the preparation they provide their guests. Prior to our charter departure, we were given a complete chart briefing covering the local cruising grounds. We were given a chance to ask any questions we had about navigation, anchorages, and prevailing conditions. We were given a complete briefing aboard our yacht and covered all the operating systems, including rigging, electrical system, water system, windlass, stove, head, dinghy, outboard and emergency systems. By the time we finished our briefing, and stowed our gear and food supplies aboard Quantum 2, the clouds broke and a spectacular blue sky appeared.

Leaving Road Town Harbour behind us, we sailed south toward our first destination and overnight mooring – The Bight at Norman Island. After catching a mooring ball to secure Quantum 2, we enjoyed a dinner prepared on the grill at the boat’s stern. We slowly savored the bottle of wine that I carefully smuggled in our luggage and reveled in our first day’s journey. Watching the fiery sun slip below the horizon, we grew lazy waiting for the first evening stars to appear. Star gazing is a must after sunset. Without the reflection of artificial lights on land, the skies are pitch black and the stars bright white. If you’re patient, you can see satellites as they traverse the night sky. The plane of the Milky Way is visible from Earth as a band of light in the night sky and billions of stars twinkle in their brightness. Drowsy from the day’s excitement, sleep came early and easily to the crew. Lulled by the gentle rocking of Quantum 2, and the soft lapping of waves against her bow, we fell fast and hard asleep. Morning light comes early and quickly in the tropics. We’ll need our rest for the next day.

The quality of our photos are poor by today's digital standards. My camera at the time was an old 35mm film. Still, I think you'll get the picture (no pun intended).

Wind In Your Sails: Part II

I have often been asked, “How did you learn to sail?” Before I answer, let me begin by saying sailing is not for everyone. If you seek speed and daring, don’t mind polluting our natural waters, and have money to burn (literally) on gas, then sailing isn’t for you. I fell in love with the beauty of sailing long before I stepped foot on a boat. In my life before Pete, I sailed with a friend on a small 16 foot day sailer. On the day of my first date with Pete, I had been at a marina in Oshkosh looking for a small sailboat of my own. It was only natural that after we married we would buy a boat together. Pete was already an accomplished sailor, and I was eager to learn. We bought a used 22’ Bristol, named Bristol Crème, and enjoyed our first season sailing on Lake Winnebago. Within six months of married life, Pete was transferred to Illinois. We spent the next several years perfecting our sailing skills on Lake Michigan, sailing up the coast from Belmont Harbor to downtown Chicago’s Monroe Harbor.

We eventually sold our sailboat and moved to Georgia where the manmade lakes are too shallow to support Bristol Crème’s deep keel. However, our passion for sailing never waned. Wanting to take my skills to a new level, I began taking classes toward my American Sailing Association accreditation at Lake Lanier. Click here for a link to the ASA web site and a list of courses I took. I successfully passed every ASA level up to Off-Shore Passagmaking. In addition, I studied for my U.S.C.G. license via Sea School. I learned practical aspects of boating, including Rules of the Road, Radio Operation, Survival Techniques, Distress Signaling, Boating Terminology, Boat Equipment, Use of Flares, Use of Life Jackets, Techniques of Seamanship, Anchoring, Aids to Navigation, Boat Registration, Navigation, Knot Tying, Firefighting and more. At the completion of my studies, I sat before the U.S. Coast Guard for my Near Coastal License. The Coast Guard calls this license “Operator of Uninspected Passenger Vessels” (OUPV). To achieve my licensure, I had to log the required number of miles, both inland and coastal. My coastal miles were logged by sailing on the inland waters of Lake Winnebago and Lake Michigan, taking off-shore sailing classes in FL, and by chartering/Captaining two sail vacations in international waters via The Moorings. It took nearly two years to achieve my ASA certification and obtain my OUPV license. I haven’t lost a passenger yet, but there's always a first time for everything (LOL!). Both photos below were taken around 1990-91. Is there any doubt why I married Pete? Isn't he cute?? There is something irresistable about a man in tune with nature (*sigh).

Chicago skyline as we leave Belmont Harbor

Pete at the helm with Jamie and Edward (our Westie) as navigators

Wind In Your Sails: Part I

We're ready for adventure and eight days of sailing fun in the fall of 2009! Three couples (Deb/Pete, Judy/Mitch, Chere/Fred) are chartering a 46' catamaran in the British Virgin Islands. Click here for a slideshow of our planned home-away-from-home. Pete and I and another couple, Bill and Claudia, chartered a monohull sailboat about five years ago and had a wonderful time. Wanting to return to the BVI's in the near future, I asked Chere and Judy if they would be interested in sharing the adventure. After checking with their spouses, they responded with a quick "Yes!". I was online checking out the available fleet before you could say "Arghhhh".

Departing the Moorings base in Roadtown Tortola, we'll make sail for Norman Island. From there we'll travel to Peter Island, The Baths on Virgin Gorda, Saba Rock, The Bitter End Yacht Club, and around the Atlantic side of Tortola to famous Cane Garden Bay, Jost Van Dyke, and Sandy Split. I'll write more about our itinerary and tales about past sailing charters in future posts.

Chartering is a great way to travel and take in all the sights. Your hotel travels with you and all the comforts of home are readily available as you move around picturesque Caribbean islands. Is there an island in the distance worth checking out? Set your sails, kick back, and enjoy the ride. Do you feel like snorkeling? Drop your sails, pick up a mooring ball, and dive off the back transom. The gentle rocking of the boat provides the most restful sleep imaginable. Star gazing is a must after a day of exploring, and rum is plentiful everywhere in the islands.

Can you tell we're excited? Check out Chere and Judy's blogs and join in the fun as we prepare for our adventure.